By Robert M. Sorensen

ISBN-10: 1475726651

ISBN-13: 9781475726657

ISBN-10: 1475726678

ISBN-13: 9781475726671

The second one variation (1997) of this article was once a totally rewritten model of the unique textual content simple Coastal Engineering released in 1978. This 3rd variation makes a number of corrections, advancements and additions to the second one variation. simple Coastal Engineering is an introductory textual content on wave mechanics and coastal procedures besides basics that underline the perform of coastal engineering. This booklet was once written for a senior or first postgraduate direction in coastal engineering. it's also compatible for self examine via a person having a easy engineering or actual technological know-how history. the extent of insurance doesn't require a math or fluid mechanics historical past past that awarded in a standard undergraduate civil or mechanical engineering curriculum. the cloth p- sented during this textual content relies at the author’s lecture notes from a one-semester direction at Virginia Polytechnic Institute, Texas A&M college, and George Washington collage, and a senior optionally available path at Lehigh college. The textual content includes examples to illustrate a few of the research strategies which are offered and every bankruptcy (except the 1st and final) has a set of difficulties for the reader to resolve that extra show and extend upon the textual content fabric. bankruptcy 1 in short describes the coastal atmosphere and introduces the re- tively new box of coastal engineering. bankruptcy 2 describes the two-dimensional features of floor waves and offers the small-amplitude wave concept to aid this description.

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**Sample text**

Halfway between the envelope positions the water surface is horizontal and all wave energy in kinetic. The net energy flux (if the two component waves are identical) is zero. The velocity potential for a standing wave can be obtained by adding the velocity potentials for the two component waves that move in opposite directions. This yields Two-Dimensional Wave Equations and Wave Characteristics / 37 '" 'I' [COSh k (d + Z)] . 55) With the velocity potential given by Eq. 55), we can derive the various standing wave characteristics in the same way as for a progressive wave.

Dimensionless wave height versus relative depth for two-dimensional wave transformation. 3-1 when it has propagated into a water depth of 10m without refracting and assuming energy gains and losses can be ignored. Determine the wave height and the water particle velocity and pressure at a point I m below the still water level under the wave crest. 3-1 we have Lo = 156 m and Eq. 3 m. Then, k m- I and from Eq. 0673) (10» 1, Eq. 97 m At the crest of the wave cos(kx - crt) = 1, and z = -1, so Eq. 0673) (10) which is the total particle velocity since w = 0 under the wave crest.

12. 7 m. At this location the tide range is 1 m. 4 hours, estimate the peak flood tidal flow velocity at this location in the river. 13. 30 m high. 5 m and the wave period is 2 s. How high is this wave 8 slater? 14. Consider aIm high, 4 s wave in water 5 m deep. Plot sufficient velocity potential lines to define their pattern and then sketch in orthogonal streamlines. 15. 1 m and a period of 9 s shoaling on a 1:50 slope without refraction. Calculate, for comparison, the crest particle velocity in deep water, at d = 20 m, and just prior to breaking.

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